A Desert Dash and some Coastal Wonders

Hi all!
I've decided to do a really quick and brief catch up to where we now are cause I'm lagging behind too far cause we're doing wonderful things!!!
We crossed the border into WA (Tanya was mostly sleeping trying to get well from a cold flu thing) and flew down the Great Central Hwy to Warburton by 1pm so we restocked on fuel before heading out of town to start the Gunbarrel Hwy. Five hours later we decided to make camp in a flat spot beside the road after only travelling a very rough 216 kms. We continued early the next morning to Wiluna, the track improved a little just past our camp then by a whole lot more when we crossed into the Wiluna shire where it widened and got a lot smoother. We arrived in Wiluna at 7pm tired but good, we got a hotel room because we couldn't be bothered and had cup-a-soup for dinner.
We travelled the highways down and around to Geraldton on the coast, and had a flat tyre on the way but we still arrived in time for my birthday wish - sunset over the indian ocean :)
Watching the sun set into the ocean was gorgeous and a great end to our desert dash, a big ball of mango sorbet melting on the horizon. Checked into a fancy self contained apartment for 2 nights of luxurious bliss. I made an amazing birthday dinner with steak, corn, broccolini, mushrooms, bacon and a cafe de paris style butter full of herbed mustard buttery goodness, all washed down with a lovely bottle of Western Australian wine.
We hung out in Geraldton for a couple more days with a rainy cold snap that halted any ideas of outdoor activities, but Ben got the car serviced and the spare tyre replaced so it was productive in any case. Denham in Shark Bay was our next stop, a windy front was coming through but that didn't stop us going out on a pearl farm tour out of Monkey Mia although it did stop stop us going into the Francois Peron National Park as it was closed from the previous wet weather. The Shark Bay Pearl farm had some gorgeous pearls and they showed us how the whole pearling process happens, truly amazing and it takes a minimum of 4 years to make one pearl from one oyster shell! That shell can get re-used for pearls up to 4 times for a period of 2 years per pearl and they get bigger as the years go on. We stayed in the westernmost caravan park in Australia, claim to fame, check. On our way out of the Shark Bay region we went down to Shell Beach.... millions of tiny tiny shells make up this beach and it was beautiful, we made our names in the shells and took lots of photos before moving on.
Carnarvon was our next stop, the fruit and vegetable capital of the west we attended the Saturday morning market in the town centre for lots of fresh bananas, beans, pumpkin, corn and lemons as well as some yummy chutney, mango chilli sauce and spice mixes. Lots and lots of yummyness :) After the markets we decided to go fishing off the one mile jetty that was built in the late 1800's. We both contributed to the fish bucket for our dinner some very nicely sized bream, which I cooked 3 ways. First with lemon, pepper and onion, second with sesame and almond spice mix then lastly with the mango chilli sauce I picked up from the markets--- the latter was the favourite, it was beautiful :)
Also in Carnarvon was our first chance to get the snorkelling gear out at the Quobba Blowholes- well around the corner from them off the beach, neither of us has ever seen so many fish, and big fish, while snorkelling before. There was so many! Parrot fish as long as my arm, reef sharks, stingrays and bream, tuna, garfish and so many more. We had another fish that afternoon at the jetty, just throwing back as we already had dinner sorted, but having a good time we stayed until after sunset when it got cold and dark fairly quickly.
Following the highway up until it split off to the coast road we followed that up and into the Cape Range National Park where we were hoping to stay they night. Unfortunately all the camps were fully booked and we had to camp just outside the park at the Yardie Creek homestead, not a fantastic place to stay but close enough to the park to explore it. We spent a whole day exploring the park, spending a fair part of that day in the water snorkelling or on the beach drying our bodies in the sun. Again the amount and size of the fish was brilliant even though the visability wasn't all that great.
Today we've arrived in Exmouth to stay for a few nights including our whaleshark tour on friday with Whaleshark Dreaming, super excited. Ben's gone fishing for some dinner (hopefully) while I'm updating.
Having a great time, miss everyone at home but not the weather there, especially right now sitting in shorts and a singlet in the sun with a soft breeze drifting by... ahhh bliss :)

Oh and Ben took off with the cameras so we'll have to wait a little longer for some current photos.

Going for a Stroll..... (part 2)

Continuing from the last post.... In the middle of our last night at King's Canyon we were woken by some very vocal dingoes, not unusual out here, but they were no less than 5 metres from our swag which made it quite loud. We left King's Canyon the next morning setting out to Yulara the base camp for Ayers rock and the Olgas after sharing our thoughts about the singing duo with our neighbours. One of whom was about to get up to shoo them off about the same time I was hitting the side of the swag to scare them away.
Arriving at Yulara we checked into the campsite for 2 nights, we set up camp and played cards while waiting for a family friend Tammy to finish work before we went over for drinks. Well drinks turned into dinner and many bottles of wine later we headed back to our campsite to go to bed, we had a great night with Tammy and Dan and hopefully we'll be able to see them again :)
Our plan for the next morning was to get up early and go walkabout in the national park, after a massive coughing fit (Tanya) and breakfast we started out the day. The Valley of the Winds walk was where we decided to start, although we had been told that it was harder than the King's Canyon luckily it wasn't the case (being right in the middle of a cold I was a bit apprehensive). The formation of the domes that makes up the Olga's is truly breathtaking, from afar they're these irregular bumps and mounds that seem quite mysterious with random trees and shrubbery on high ledges. Once you get in amongst them on the walk you feel dwarfed by their presence, like a country boy in a big city (Zac) our eyes were skyward, taking in all the visual delights on offer. The valley of the winds truly lived up to it's name as it was one of the windiest days that week, almost blowing some of the waif-like Scandinavian tourists off the final lookout down into the gully, even so, being dwarfed by these natural structures was amazing! Once out of the more gorge-like crevices that are in between the domes you walk down to what appears to be a valley, more open and spacious with native grasses, wattles, acacias and gums. The very identifiable honk/chirp of wild zebra finches surrounds you in some areas as they rise from one dense bush in a Small undulating cloud to quickly dart to another shrubbery nearby. I think they are one of my favourites so far, rarely quiet just honking away, constantly moving and talking with friends/family. The walk takes you back along a dry stony riverbed, as identified by the eucalyptus that seem to grow in most of the dry riverbeds out here, back to the start of the loop before heading back up to the first lookout and car park.
After our journey through the Valley of the Winds we decided to have lunch at another nearby lookout with views of both the Olgas and Ayers Rock. We went on to look through the cultural centre and get an ice block before continuing to drive around the rock, as we weren't really feeling up to another long walk, well Ben was but I not so much. Even the drive around was gorgeous but unfortunately for Ben the climb was closed because of the winds mentioned earlier.
We returned to the campsite to do some work on the blog and to have a shower and clean up before sunset and dinner out that night. Sunset at the rock was magical even though we didn't get to see it all cause we were running a tad late (tad ironic it was the blog's fault). We headed back a bit later than most of the tourists, it's lovely as it turns to night. The resort has a complimentary shuttle bus that goes round and round the loop of the resort so we caught that to the restaurant for dinner. Oh my, I'm going to have a food writing section now so tune out if you wish. Pre-dinner drinks in the bar as we were a little early were a delightful pimms for me and a whiskey for Ben, we sat at a table to the back of the restaurant looking out into the night but more-so at the other diners, which I love watching for reactions good or bad anyway. The menu is scrumptious! For starters beef carpacchio with fennel and citrus salad as well as smoky bay oysters (YUMMY! best oysters!) with bacon, bush tomato and pepper. Main meals were a visual treat, Ben had a 300g rib fillet served on the bone with polenta fries, honeyed Dijon mustard and a beetroot Rosella flower chutney- the star of the dish in Ben's eyes. I had roasted duck's breasts in a polenta terrine with wild mushroom puree, bitter greens and herbed mascarpone. Dessert took us to heaven, roasted rhubarb mille fuille crumble with vanilla single cream as well as blood orange sorbet with chocolate macaroon filled with double cream and dark chocolate orange scroll. It was delicious!!!!!!!
Back to camp and we packed up everything but the swag for an early getaway. Leaving before the break of dawn to watch the sunrise from the platform in between Uluru in the east and Kata Tjuta in the west. Sunrise was gorgeous and I don't believe for a minute that the photos do it justice, in that moment no matter how many people were around us there was a quietness I'd never before witnessed in a crowd outside of church and memorial services. This quietness was intertwined with an anticipation and reverence that was as beautiful as the sights unfolding before us in the early morning light.
After a quick breakfast in the ute we continued on, running from the sun and eventually into it.

Sunset somewhere near Longreach 

Matilda Museum Winton - in a train carriage 

 Gully along King's River in King's Canyon

Bush Camp at Georgina River - halfway between Boulia and NT border 

On the way to Boulia

In the Botanical Gardens at Alice Springs 

Amazing wooden chairs at the start of the Valley of the Winds walk - also seen at cultural centre -

- I want one - 

Little Cave on King's Canyon Walk :) 

Looking up King's Canyon 

Looking down King's Canyon 

The Olga's - from the road around

The Valley of the Winds - final lookout  

The Olga's - from the middle 

Sitting on a branch at Jervois Station - NT

On a small hill somewhere inbetween Stonehenge and Longreach

Much love xoxoxoxo



Going for a stroll... (part 1)

Since we last posted we've been walking around beautiful landmarks by the bucketful. We headed out from Alice Springs last Saturday along to the West Macdonnel Ranges, stopping in at a lot of gorges and waterholes along the way to stretch our legs, so much so when we got to our night's stay at Glen Helen we were "gorged out" and didn't really want to go in to that one as well. Even so our drive out was lovely the skies were clear and the short walks we did were really lovely. We had a very cold night at Geln Helen on our patch of red dust and neither of us really wanted to venture out to the bar, instead snuggling into bed for a good nights sleep.
Sunday saw us travelling the Mereenie loop to get down to Kings Canyon, we had a very healthy chiken salad sandwich on the road and got down there about 3pm. We were super excited to see some grassy camp areas when we first got there but were not so thrilled about the evil looking thorny burs that would puncture their way into your feet and thongs, nevertheless we set up camp and had a good shower to wash off the dust that seemed to infiltrate our clothing and hair before a simple bbq dinner. After dinner we made our way up to the bar where the entertainment was for the evening -- The Roadies -- a performing couple who involved the audience for some family orientated fun, getting kids, mums, dads and all sorts up on stage to play instruments and sing or dance. Ben got pulled up to boost the numbers in the "dad's" game, playing a cows bell without touching with his hands to the chorus of "my ding-a-ling". Ben was good but some of the other contestants moves, which included a bum dance and mr bean-esque dance, won out in the end.
The very obvious highlight of our stay was walking around the rim King's Canyon, a very stunning venture which started with a very steep incline to ascend to the top of the canyon. I had not been feeling all that well and was very much highlighted in my breathing issues on the way up, meanwhile Ben was jumping around and being ever so spritely to my chagrin. But we made it to the top one way or the other, and it was very much worth the effort! We spent the next 4 or so hours walking around the canyon edge, Ben loved getting up close with the edges of the cliffs and I've decided he must be part mountain goat somewhere along the line. The vistas from those cliff edges were spectacular!!! We both thoroughly enjoyed all the lookouts, climbing out to each little turn off to really enjoy the experience. We broke up the day by having lunch down in the "Garden of Eden" right next to the waterhole, which was just lovely to look up to the cliffs we'd just been walking around. The stairs up and down from this spot were super steep and Ben really enjoyed the 'view' coming back up to the top of the canyon. From the otherside it was a meandering little journey back along the cliffs and down the back side of the canyon (which if you aren't too fit is a much easier way to get to the top). We ended the day with soft tacos and a very early night for Tanya not being all that well.

To be continued with photos - Today we have been around Ayers Rock and The Olgas, but that will have to wait!!!! Sunset at Uluru is a calling........

Going along for a ride....

I'm writing from Alice Springs with what seems to be a bruised bottom. We spent today on bicycles riding all over from the town centre up to the old telegraph building, back into town to Anzac hill, the Reptile Centre and Olive Pink Botanical Gardens. It was a really good day out -- despite my bruises (Tanya seems to have picked up some of Michelle's spectacular abilities with two wheeled things). I particularly liked the reptile centre, we got to hold this huge Olive Python named Zeus who was 8 years old and only 6kg!! I had a great time probably cause I used to have fun at O'Reilly's with the scaly creatures but Ben... well Zeus just wanted a kiss and a photo tells a thousand words.... and you'll have to wait for that because I can't find the right cable to upload it, damn.
The trip over was great though we were diverted by the rain so couldn't go through Birdsville. We ended up travelling from Quilpie up to Longreach through Stonehenge (Qld. not U.K.) then on upwards and across to Winton and Boulia. Since we'd already done the Longreach thing and it was a Sunday we had a leisurly trip up to Winton and spent the afternoon having drinks with smoked oysters and crackers, watching the sun sink below the horizon. Monday morning we spent going through the Waltzing Matilda museum, which was awesome! They had heaps of backround about the times that waltzing matilda really carried us as a nation, to drive people to "waltz matilda" and to become our unofficial anthem. We then drove through Boulia and set up camp at Georgina River on Monday night, crossing over towards the Plenty Hwy. Once over the border we stayed at Jervois Station before coming down to Alice Springs.
Jervois Station was a great little stopover- hot shower until someone turns off the heat and you have to spend the remainder trying to remind yourself how nice hot water was.... but more fun was the very inquisitive cattle that invaded the campsite as everyone was eating, cooking or washing up around the campsite. First the campsite behind us had them as visitors, next the one to the north where the steer got right in to the hot plate trying to lick the pot of goodies on the stove and so on and so forth. We had just set up our swag with the thought of doing to washing up in the morning when we were visited, right into the washing up bucket that had been put under the the back of the ute. Well our swag was almost trampled in the process but Ben managed to get them out of it.
The rest of the drive into Alice was pretty uneventful, although Ben did manage to get bingo on the way (we've made our own car bingo up), and we're stocked with some more fresh fruit and vege for the next part of our journey. We've been staying at the Macdonnel Range Holiday Park (part of the Big4 chain) and the first night's shower here was BLISS!!!! so so clean, while it lasts.
We're off to Glen Helen today and then down to King's Canyon after that :)
Enjoying our time in the red centre, love to all xoxo